Many new car buyers will appreciate the latest automotive trends expected to take shape in 2006 and beyond. A greater variety of downsized, fuel-efficient SUVs will be available. New vehicle safety features like tire pressure monitors will reach the market. And sales promotions like last summer’s employee discount campaign are expected to set the stage for year-round, no-haggle vehicle pricing.
But a less-publicized automotive trend – rising interest rates – will make 0-percent car loans a rare breed in 2006. Increasingly, consumers will need to comparison shop for their car loans before they go to buy, just as they do for the vehicles themselves.
According to Bankrate.com, interest rates on new car loans rose steadily throughout 2005 and the pattern is expected to continue into 2006. The difference of just two percentage points on your APR can either save or cost you more than $1,400 over the life of a typical loan.
"Many consumers do not realize that they have other options for financing their car, outside of the dealership," said Brian Reed, vice president of Capital One Auto Finance. "There are some great options for consumers to finance their car on a direct basis, versus relying on the dealer to provide that service for you."
Because education is the key to getting the best deal when financing a car, Capital One Auto Finance offers prospective car buyers the following helpful tips:
Set a realistic budget. Choose a vehicle that won’t overextend you financially. A general rule of thumb is that no more than 15 percent to 20 percent of your total monthly budget should go toward all your car-related expenses.
Verify your credit record. Order a copy of your credit report to ensure it’s accurate and in good shape. Correct any errors before applying for a loan.
Comparison shop for loans. Check out credit unions, banks and online lenders to see what rates are available in the market, so that you know a competitive rate when you see one. Visit Web sites such as www.bankrate.com and www.capitaloneautofinance.com.
Arrive with financing in your pocket. Having approved, no-obligation financing in hand gives you a competitive advantage when you go to buy, giving you the power of a cash buyer. If the dealer offers a better loan rate, you can take it with no penalty.
Approach your purchase as three transactions. It’s best to treat each part of the purchase separately: 1) financing; 2) trade-in; and 3) vehicle purchase. This will simplify the process and maximize your negotiating opportunities.
Match length of loan to expected length of ownership. Select your loan term based on how long you plan to own the vehicle. Buyers who take out longer-term loans can find themselves “upside down” on their loan (owing more money on the car than it’s worth in trade).
Review your financing terms carefully. Make sure you know your interest rate, monthly payment, amount you are financing, the length of your loan and your trade-in value.
“If car buyers would spend just a fraction of the time researching their auto loan as they do the latest features on their new car, they’d be surprised at how much money they could save,” said Reed of Capital One.
About The Author
Alan Luong is the site owner of http://www.dezeinfo.com/. A loan site with a lot of useful information on many different types of loan, and useful loan tips to help loan searchers to avoid scam.
webmaster@dezeinfo.com
Thursday, March 29, 2007
Tuesday, March 27, 2007
Best Car Wash and Wax Tips from the Pros
It is a proven fact that the better your car looks the higher the value you will get at resale or trade-in. Proper car care to include washing, waxing, and polishing will not only make your car look its best, but will help retain its value and make it last longer. For the purpose of this article we questioned numerous detailing experts and other similar professionals as to what works best. Here are their best car care recommendations:
Start by using a garage or shaded area. The hot sun will make proper car care and cleaning hard, if not impossible and could be detrimental to your car’s finish. Next thoroughly wet down the car. This will remove dirt and road debris which will cause scratches if you skip this step and start using a sponge and soap on the car. If it is a hot day, be sure to routinely wet the car so it does not dry suds or cleaning chemicals on it.
Next use a car wash solution, don’t use general purpose detergents and cleaners that were never meant for car care and car washing. A car wash solution will not dry out your paint or strip and possibly remove protective coatings. A long armed, soft bristled wash brush will greatly reduce the time it takes to thoroughly clean your car. It will also make it easier on your back and muscles. A good quality brush can be cheaply obtained at Walmart for about $10-$15 – buy one, you will be glad you did. When you have finished washing the whole car, use a chamois to dry off your car. A chamois will remove water quickly and not leave lint which terry cloths are prone to do. Routinely washing your car will remove things like bird droppings, bugs and industrial fallout which are all detrimental to your car’s paint and finish. If there is road tar or stubborn bugs left after washing you should use a bug and tar remover prior to waxing and polishing.
It is a good idea to follow washing with the application of a cleaner/polish. This will remove minor imperfections in the paint caused by the environment and sun damage, remove minor scratches, and provide a good surface for car wax or car polish. Follow the directions on the bottle. Basically you apply cleaner wax as you would wax – in a circular motion and you treat one area or panel at a time. Use modest pressure and then let dry to a whitish haze. Buff with a clean cloth towel and reapply as necessary.
Then you need to decide whether to use car wax or a polymer car polish. According to the experts, carnauba car wax has the deepest and wettest looking shine, but it is also the weakest protection for the harsh environment (acid rain, extreme temperature ranges, bird droppings, etc…). Car polish is easier to apply as it requires less effort to apply and remove. It will also last much longer (some have polymers and even Teflon and will last as long as 52 car washes after 1 application). Car polish will still give you that new car look and was the unanimous recommendation from our experts for any outdoor use (car wax was recommended mostly for car shows). Both car polish and car wax are applied in the same way and many come with a cloth or foam applicator. Apply in a small circular motion same as with the cleaner/polish. Car polish will go on easier and come off easier than car wax and requires only one coat for great protection in any climate. After allowing it to dry to a haze, buff it off, but use a microfiber towel as it will leave a smoother finish quicker and without any lint.
The above recommended steps for properly washing, waxing and polishing your car will leave you with the best shine, maximum protection, make your car last, and maintain its highest value. Remember, a little proper car care can and will go a long way.
It is a proven fact that the better your car looks the higher the value you will get at resale or trade-in. Proper car care to include washing, waxing, and polishing will not only make your car look its best, but will help retain its value and make it last longer. For the purpose of this article we questioned numerous detailing experts and other similar professionals as to what works best. Here are their best car care recommendations:
Start by using a garage or shaded area. The hot sun will make proper car care and cleaning hard, if not impossible and could be detrimental to your car’s finish. Next thoroughly wet down the car. This will remove dirt and road debris which will cause scratches if you skip this step and start using a sponge and soap on the car. If it is a hot day, be sure to routinely wet the car so it does not dry suds or cleaning chemicals on it.
Next use a car wash solution, don’t use general purpose detergents and cleaners that were never meant for car care and car washing. A car wash solution will not dry out your paint or strip and possibly remove protective coatings. A long armed, soft bristled wash brush will greatly reduce the time it takes to thoroughly clean your car. It will also make it easier on your back and muscles. A good quality brush can be cheaply obtained at Walmart for about $10-$15 – buy one, you will be glad you did. When you have finished washing the whole car, use a chamois to dry off your car. A chamois will remove water quickly and not leave lint which terry cloths are prone to do. Routinely washing your car will remove things like bird droppings, bugs and industrial fallout which are all detrimental to your car’s paint and finish. If there is road tar or stubborn bugs left after washing you should use a bug and tar remover prior to waxing and polishing.
It is a good idea to follow washing with the application of a cleaner/polish. This will remove minor imperfections in the paint caused by the environment and sun damage, remove minor scratches, and provide a good surface for car wax or car polish. Follow the directions on the bottle. Basically you apply cleaner wax as you would wax – in a circular motion and you treat one area or panel at a time. Use modest pressure and then let dry to a whitish haze. Buff with a clean cloth towel and reapply as necessary.
Then you need to decide whether to use car wax or a polymer car polish. According to the experts, carnauba car wax has the deepest and wettest looking shine, but it is also the weakest protection for the harsh environment (acid rain, extreme temperature ranges, bird droppings, etc…). Car polish is easier to apply as it requires less effort to apply and remove. It will also last much longer (some have polymers and even Teflon and will last as long as 52 car washes after 1 application). Car polish will still give you that new car look and was the unanimous recommendation from our experts for any outdoor use (car wax was recommended mostly for car shows). Both car polish and car wax are applied in the same way and many come with a cloth or foam applicator. Apply in a small circular motion same as with the cleaner/polish. Car polish will go on easier and come off easier than car wax and requires only one coat for great protection in any climate. After allowing it to dry to a haze, buff it off, but use a microfiber towel as it will leave a smoother finish quicker and without any lint.
The above recommended steps for properly washing, waxing and polishing your car will leave you with the best shine, maximum protection, make your car last, and maintain its highest value. Remember, a little proper car care can and will go a long way.
Article Source: http://www.redsofts.com/articles/
Start by using a garage or shaded area. The hot sun will make proper car care and cleaning hard, if not impossible and could be detrimental to your car’s finish. Next thoroughly wet down the car. This will remove dirt and road debris which will cause scratches if you skip this step and start using a sponge and soap on the car. If it is a hot day, be sure to routinely wet the car so it does not dry suds or cleaning chemicals on it.
Next use a car wash solution, don’t use general purpose detergents and cleaners that were never meant for car care and car washing. A car wash solution will not dry out your paint or strip and possibly remove protective coatings. A long armed, soft bristled wash brush will greatly reduce the time it takes to thoroughly clean your car. It will also make it easier on your back and muscles. A good quality brush can be cheaply obtained at Walmart for about $10-$15 – buy one, you will be glad you did. When you have finished washing the whole car, use a chamois to dry off your car. A chamois will remove water quickly and not leave lint which terry cloths are prone to do. Routinely washing your car will remove things like bird droppings, bugs and industrial fallout which are all detrimental to your car’s paint and finish. If there is road tar or stubborn bugs left after washing you should use a bug and tar remover prior to waxing and polishing.
It is a good idea to follow washing with the application of a cleaner/polish. This will remove minor imperfections in the paint caused by the environment and sun damage, remove minor scratches, and provide a good surface for car wax or car polish. Follow the directions on the bottle. Basically you apply cleaner wax as you would wax – in a circular motion and you treat one area or panel at a time. Use modest pressure and then let dry to a whitish haze. Buff with a clean cloth towel and reapply as necessary.
Then you need to decide whether to use car wax or a polymer car polish. According to the experts, carnauba car wax has the deepest and wettest looking shine, but it is also the weakest protection for the harsh environment (acid rain, extreme temperature ranges, bird droppings, etc…). Car polish is easier to apply as it requires less effort to apply and remove. It will also last much longer (some have polymers and even Teflon and will last as long as 52 car washes after 1 application). Car polish will still give you that new car look and was the unanimous recommendation from our experts for any outdoor use (car wax was recommended mostly for car shows). Both car polish and car wax are applied in the same way and many come with a cloth or foam applicator. Apply in a small circular motion same as with the cleaner/polish. Car polish will go on easier and come off easier than car wax and requires only one coat for great protection in any climate. After allowing it to dry to a haze, buff it off, but use a microfiber towel as it will leave a smoother finish quicker and without any lint.
The above recommended steps for properly washing, waxing and polishing your car will leave you with the best shine, maximum protection, make your car last, and maintain its highest value. Remember, a little proper car care can and will go a long way.
It is a proven fact that the better your car looks the higher the value you will get at resale or trade-in. Proper car care to include washing, waxing, and polishing will not only make your car look its best, but will help retain its value and make it last longer. For the purpose of this article we questioned numerous detailing experts and other similar professionals as to what works best. Here are their best car care recommendations:
Start by using a garage or shaded area. The hot sun will make proper car care and cleaning hard, if not impossible and could be detrimental to your car’s finish. Next thoroughly wet down the car. This will remove dirt and road debris which will cause scratches if you skip this step and start using a sponge and soap on the car. If it is a hot day, be sure to routinely wet the car so it does not dry suds or cleaning chemicals on it.
Next use a car wash solution, don’t use general purpose detergents and cleaners that were never meant for car care and car washing. A car wash solution will not dry out your paint or strip and possibly remove protective coatings. A long armed, soft bristled wash brush will greatly reduce the time it takes to thoroughly clean your car. It will also make it easier on your back and muscles. A good quality brush can be cheaply obtained at Walmart for about $10-$15 – buy one, you will be glad you did. When you have finished washing the whole car, use a chamois to dry off your car. A chamois will remove water quickly and not leave lint which terry cloths are prone to do. Routinely washing your car will remove things like bird droppings, bugs and industrial fallout which are all detrimental to your car’s paint and finish. If there is road tar or stubborn bugs left after washing you should use a bug and tar remover prior to waxing and polishing.
It is a good idea to follow washing with the application of a cleaner/polish. This will remove minor imperfections in the paint caused by the environment and sun damage, remove minor scratches, and provide a good surface for car wax or car polish. Follow the directions on the bottle. Basically you apply cleaner wax as you would wax – in a circular motion and you treat one area or panel at a time. Use modest pressure and then let dry to a whitish haze. Buff with a clean cloth towel and reapply as necessary.
Then you need to decide whether to use car wax or a polymer car polish. According to the experts, carnauba car wax has the deepest and wettest looking shine, but it is also the weakest protection for the harsh environment (acid rain, extreme temperature ranges, bird droppings, etc…). Car polish is easier to apply as it requires less effort to apply and remove. It will also last much longer (some have polymers and even Teflon and will last as long as 52 car washes after 1 application). Car polish will still give you that new car look and was the unanimous recommendation from our experts for any outdoor use (car wax was recommended mostly for car shows). Both car polish and car wax are applied in the same way and many come with a cloth or foam applicator. Apply in a small circular motion same as with the cleaner/polish. Car polish will go on easier and come off easier than car wax and requires only one coat for great protection in any climate. After allowing it to dry to a haze, buff it off, but use a microfiber towel as it will leave a smoother finish quicker and without any lint.
The above recommended steps for properly washing, waxing and polishing your car will leave you with the best shine, maximum protection, make your car last, and maintain its highest value. Remember, a little proper car care can and will go a long way.
Article Source: http://www.redsofts.com/articles/
Monday, March 26, 2007
Skoda brand in Australia
In the news: Skoda, Volkswagen subsidiary and recipient of VW exhaust part will once again try its luck in the Australian market after 25 years. Volkswagen plans to introduce its Skoda brand in Australia this coming October. Matthew Weisner, Volkswagen Group of Australia general manager, press and public relations have been appointed as head of Skoda Australia and his duty includes the re-launch of the Skoda brand. Although a bit reluctant Weisner said that he will do his best to promote Skoda to the Australian market.
Skoda’s lineup for Australia includes the following:
• Fabia – this Volkswagen Polo-sized light car derived its styling cues from the Mini Cooper and Suzuki Swift. The Fabia was launched last year at the Paris Motor Show. It offers economical, three-cylinder, HTP short for High Tech Performance petrol and TDI engines. It also offers 16-valve, 63kW, 1.4 liter and 77kW, 1.6 liter petrol models. The 1.6 liter petrol engine is offered with a six-speed tiptronic automatic. Both the 1.4 and 1.6 petrol units are to be brought to Australia.
The Fabia has a length measuring at 3992 mm long and with a wheelbase of 2462 mm. Comparing it to the Polo, the Fabia is approximately 76 mm longer overall and 3mm longer on the wheelbase. It also possesses 300 liters of luggage space. The Fabia that will be sold in Australia will also feature six airbags, climate control airconditioning and active headlights. The Fabia will be priced at $16,000.
• Octavia – the Octavia bears similar features with the VW Passat and just like the latter, the Octaivia is a mid-size offered either as a front-wheel-drive sedan and wagon. It will also be made to compete with the premium priced Japanese models with the likes of Honda Accord Euro, Mazda6, Subaru Liberty, and soon-to-be Ford Mondeo.
The Octavia is powered by a range of petrol and turbo-diesel engines ranging from 110kW, 2 liter FSI up to a 125kW, 2liter TDI and 147kW, 2 litre FSI four cylinder in the RS. Likewise, a 1.4 liter model will also be made available for Australia along with the five and six-speed manual transmissions with the addition of a six-speed VW-sourced DSG manual. The price of the Octavia is about $30,000.
• Superb – this is an essentially long-wheelbase version of the Octavia designed for the higher end of the market. The Superb is spacious offering extra legroom in the back and plenty of leather and luxury. The Superb is equipped with the Passat’s older 142kW, 2.8 liter V6 petrol and 120 kW, 2.5 liter six cylinder TDI engines which are both available with a tiptronic five-speed automatic.
This long-wheelbase sedan is available in Europe with a 110kW, turbocharged 1.8 liter and naturally aspirated 85 kW, 2 liter four cylinder engine. The price for the Superb is about $45,000.
• Roomster – this vehicle started as a funky concept car at the 2003 Frankfurt Motor Show while a production version was unveiled last year. The Roomster is distinguished by its high-set, van like styling. Its versatile, five-door concept is similar to the VW Caddy that is quickly converted from a five-seater into a load-lugging two-seater vehicle.
The Roomster Scout adds plastic-cladding around the body which provides it with an off-road look despite the fact that it is a front-wheel drive vehicle. The price of the Roomster is about $27,000.
In addition, Volkswagen also plans to introduce in Australia next year the VW Polo-sized Fabia. This Fabia was previously presented at the Geneva Motor Show. Likewise, by 2009 Volkswagen will launch a new generation version of its long-wheelbase Surperb sedan.
Skoda’s lineup for Australia includes the following:
• Fabia – this Volkswagen Polo-sized light car derived its styling cues from the Mini Cooper and Suzuki Swift. The Fabia was launched last year at the Paris Motor Show. It offers economical, three-cylinder, HTP short for High Tech Performance petrol and TDI engines. It also offers 16-valve, 63kW, 1.4 liter and 77kW, 1.6 liter petrol models. The 1.6 liter petrol engine is offered with a six-speed tiptronic automatic. Both the 1.4 and 1.6 petrol units are to be brought to Australia.
The Fabia has a length measuring at 3992 mm long and with a wheelbase of 2462 mm. Comparing it to the Polo, the Fabia is approximately 76 mm longer overall and 3mm longer on the wheelbase. It also possesses 300 liters of luggage space. The Fabia that will be sold in Australia will also feature six airbags, climate control airconditioning and active headlights. The Fabia will be priced at $16,000.
• Octavia – the Octavia bears similar features with the VW Passat and just like the latter, the Octaivia is a mid-size offered either as a front-wheel-drive sedan and wagon. It will also be made to compete with the premium priced Japanese models with the likes of Honda Accord Euro, Mazda6, Subaru Liberty, and soon-to-be Ford Mondeo.
The Octavia is powered by a range of petrol and turbo-diesel engines ranging from 110kW, 2 liter FSI up to a 125kW, 2liter TDI and 147kW, 2 litre FSI four cylinder in the RS. Likewise, a 1.4 liter model will also be made available for Australia along with the five and six-speed manual transmissions with the addition of a six-speed VW-sourced DSG manual. The price of the Octavia is about $30,000.
• Superb – this is an essentially long-wheelbase version of the Octavia designed for the higher end of the market. The Superb is spacious offering extra legroom in the back and plenty of leather and luxury. The Superb is equipped with the Passat’s older 142kW, 2.8 liter V6 petrol and 120 kW, 2.5 liter six cylinder TDI engines which are both available with a tiptronic five-speed automatic.
This long-wheelbase sedan is available in Europe with a 110kW, turbocharged 1.8 liter and naturally aspirated 85 kW, 2 liter four cylinder engine. The price for the Superb is about $45,000.
• Roomster – this vehicle started as a funky concept car at the 2003 Frankfurt Motor Show while a production version was unveiled last year. The Roomster is distinguished by its high-set, van like styling. Its versatile, five-door concept is similar to the VW Caddy that is quickly converted from a five-seater into a load-lugging two-seater vehicle.
The Roomster Scout adds plastic-cladding around the body which provides it with an off-road look despite the fact that it is a front-wheel drive vehicle. The price of the Roomster is about $27,000.
In addition, Volkswagen also plans to introduce in Australia next year the VW Polo-sized Fabia. This Fabia was previously presented at the Geneva Motor Show. Likewise, by 2009 Volkswagen will launch a new generation version of its long-wheelbase Surperb sedan.
Saturday, March 24, 2007
car condominiums
Car condos (also known as car condominiums) are individual, climate-controlled parking garages people can buy to store their exotic cars, motorcycles, boats and other items. Amenities include private bathrooms, concierge services, 24-hour security and clubhouses to entertain guests. Like a traditional condominium, a car condo is real estate where the owner owns the unit where the car is stored. The common areas of the car condo building are jointly owned by all the tenants and the car condo owner pays a monthly maintenance fee for their use.
Car condo developers are marketing their projects to the following demographic:
1) The classic car owner who wishes to store his/her vehicle in an optimum environment.
2) A person who has a secondary residence in a popular vacation destination (e.g. South Florida, Las Vegas, Scottsdale) and wishes to keep a car year-round at that destination.
3) A resident of an urban area (e.g. New York City) where parking a car is exorbitantly expensive and where the car owner wishes a property interest in return for the large monthly parking outlay.
Car condo complexes offer a variety of service offerings from webcams where owners can peek at their vehicles over the internet to private bathrooms for their owners to use.
Car condo developers are marketing their projects to the following demographic:
1) The classic car owner who wishes to store his/her vehicle in an optimum environment.
2) A person who has a secondary residence in a popular vacation destination (e.g. South Florida, Las Vegas, Scottsdale) and wishes to keep a car year-round at that destination.
3) A resident of an urban area (e.g. New York City) where parking a car is exorbitantly expensive and where the car owner wishes a property interest in return for the large monthly parking outlay.
Car condo complexes offer a variety of service offerings from webcams where owners can peek at their vehicles over the internet to private bathrooms for their owners to use.
Friday, March 23, 2007
Suspension
Suspension is one area where a dramatic increase in performance can be gained simply by upgrading components. The syncro has the potential to have pretty good suspension, but the stock components are not up to the job. Better shocks, springs and suspension-related bushings can significantly enhance the feel and performance of the vehicle. Ground clearance can also be modestly increased through stiffer or taller springs. But increasing ride height beyond stock specs will result in increased stresses on and even premature failure of the CV joints, and may increase risk of a rollover accident..
Overview
The goal when upgrading the suspension should be to maximize the performance of the existing design. That means keeping static ride height within the range that the system was designed for in order to avoid topping out problems and to permit the wheels to drop into holes. Maximum static ride height for the Syncro is roughly 19.4 inches, measuring from axle center to the lower lip of the (metal) fender).
The damping on the stock Boge shocks and on the Old Man Emu shocks (which are valved a little stiffer than the Boge "C") also impose limitations. Both shocks are valved for 14" wheels (except the Boge "N" shocks are valved for 16" syncros) and neither is re-valvable or adjustable. This puts an effective limit on tire/wheel weights and spring stiffness options that will in fact result in optimized performance.
Specifically, a custom spring that is more than modestly stiffer than stock or a wheel/tire combination that is more than modestly heavier than the stock 14" setup will impose forces beyond the performance parameters of the damping of the available shocks.
Consequently, if you want to upgrade to bigger wheels and tires, the more they weigh than the stockers, the more they will impact negatively on suspension performance due to inadequate damping/valving of the shocks. The van will top out easier and the front end will pop wheelies easier over whoop-de-doo type bumps, especially at speed. It may affect cornering, too. In addition, if a custom spring is too stiff for the stock shock rebound valving, it will also cause the vehicle to feel too bouncy and too busy over bumps. The further away from stock you get in wheel/tire weight and spring stiffness, the worse the symptoms will be.
For this reason, unless you are going to have custom shocks made, or are going to purchase Boge "N" shocks for the 16" syncro, or do not mind some degradation of suspension performance, it is best to stay reasonably close to both stock spring stiffness and stock wheel/tire weight when making upgrades. Choice of tires is also critical to suspension performance since the tires work with and act as a de facto component of the suspension.
Overview
The goal when upgrading the suspension should be to maximize the performance of the existing design. That means keeping static ride height within the range that the system was designed for in order to avoid topping out problems and to permit the wheels to drop into holes. Maximum static ride height for the Syncro is roughly 19.4 inches, measuring from axle center to the lower lip of the (metal) fender).
The damping on the stock Boge shocks and on the Old Man Emu shocks (which are valved a little stiffer than the Boge "C") also impose limitations. Both shocks are valved for 14" wheels (except the Boge "N" shocks are valved for 16" syncros) and neither is re-valvable or adjustable. This puts an effective limit on tire/wheel weights and spring stiffness options that will in fact result in optimized performance.
Specifically, a custom spring that is more than modestly stiffer than stock or a wheel/tire combination that is more than modestly heavier than the stock 14" setup will impose forces beyond the performance parameters of the damping of the available shocks.
Consequently, if you want to upgrade to bigger wheels and tires, the more they weigh than the stockers, the more they will impact negatively on suspension performance due to inadequate damping/valving of the shocks. The van will top out easier and the front end will pop wheelies easier over whoop-de-doo type bumps, especially at speed. It may affect cornering, too. In addition, if a custom spring is too stiff for the stock shock rebound valving, it will also cause the vehicle to feel too bouncy and too busy over bumps. The further away from stock you get in wheel/tire weight and spring stiffness, the worse the symptoms will be.
For this reason, unless you are going to have custom shocks made, or are going to purchase Boge "N" shocks for the 16" syncro, or do not mind some degradation of suspension performance, it is best to stay reasonably close to both stock spring stiffness and stock wheel/tire weight when making upgrades. Choice of tires is also critical to suspension performance since the tires work with and act as a de facto component of the suspension.
Spark plug socket
This procedure will generally apply to all air-cooled Volkswagens.
The spark plugs generally should be replaced every 30,000 miles. Some plugs, like the platinum spark plugs, can go longer than this. However, if the plugs become fouled or wear out before 30,000 miles, they must then be replaced sooner. Replacing the spark plugs is a fairly simple operation. It requires a special spark plug socket, and a ratchet with a few long extensions. It also requires some type of anti-seize product.
The spark plugs on an air-cooled Volkswagen engine are threaded directly into the aluminum cylinder head. Due to the different expansion rates of the spark plug metal and the cylinder head metal, the spark plugs should only be removed when the engine is cold, if possible. This reduces the chances for stripping or galling of the threads in the cylinder head.
The first step is removing the old spark plugs. To do this, you must first remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. A good tip here is to only remove one spark plug wire at a time. That way, there is no chance of possibly getting the spark plug wires mixed up. So, for orderliness, start with the spark plug for cylinder number 1. Number 1 is the front right cylinder on an air-cooled Volkswagen. There is a number stamped into the tin next to each spark plug, so observe where you are.
First remove the spark plug wire. Twist it as you pull it off. Always pull by the plastic connector, never by the wire itself. If you pull by the wire, it is likely to pull out of the plastic connector. Once you have the wire off, look down through the tin to see your spark plug staring at you. If it is a Type 1 engine you will probably only be able to see the very tip peeking out from under the tin. If you have a late Bus, you will find it easier to do this work from the open interior hatch in the luggage area. If you have a Vanagon, rejoice, this is super-easy to get to. Try to fit your spark plug socket (attached to ratchet, of course) on the spark plug. You will have to experiment with various extensions to get it on. If you find that certain engine bits are in your way (air cleaner, etc.) go ahead and remove them.
Once you've got the spark plug socket on, set your ratchet to "loosen" -- make sure, now -- and then unscrew the spark plug. It may be hard to loosen, especially if you have a long extension, but hold the extension straight and carefully loosen it. When it breaks free, unscrew it slowly, feeling for any binding. If it loosens and starts coming out but then seems to be tightening, stop. Tighten the plug up a bit and then loosen a bit. Repeat as necessary, you don't want to damage the threads, but it may not be avoidable. You can try spraying a little penetrating oil on the threads if you're that limber, but just be careful. If the plug comes out OK, be happy. If it comes out with little metal spiral shavings clinging to it, you've got a problem.
Check out the old plug. The color should be a nice even tan to gray color. It should not be physically damaged, nor should it be wet with oil or have black fluffy carbon deposits on it. Physical damage indicates that something solid got into the combustion chamber and banged around for a while. Oil fouling indicates that a lot of oil is getting into the combustion chamber. May be time for new rings or valve guides. Excessive black fluffy carbon deposits indicate a rich fuel/air mixture. This is just a basic guide of the most common things you will find. The Haynes manuals have a nice full color photo chart of various spark plug colorings and their causes. Reference this chart.
Now remove the old spark plug from your socket while thinking about what you need to do to your engine (adjust mixture, etc.). Place the new spark plug in the socket. Decide whether or not you need that little metal screw-on terminal. Did the one that came out have it? If not, you don't need it -- unscrew it. If so, keep it on there. Your spark plug wire will only fit one way. Now you need to gap the spark plug. I believe the gap should be .026", but check the manual to be sure. You check the gap between the electrode and the insulator with an appropriate feeler gauge. Bend the electrode as necessary to achieve the proper gap.
Now coat the threads of your plug with some anti-seize compound. Then remove the ratchet from your extension and hold the extension by hand. Start threading the plug into its hole this way. If your old plug came out with some metal shavings, be VERY VERY CAREFUL about how you do this. You do not want to cross-thread the new plug. However, if the old one came out with shavings, it is likely that someone else has cross-threaded the plug in the past. I personally have never had this problem but I believe the solution involves removing the cylinder head and having a thread insert installed.
This is why you want to start the plug by hand. It should start easily and turn easily as you thread it in. It should not immediately bind up in its hole. If it does, take it out and start over again as you were likely cross-threading it.
Once you get the plug hand-tight, then tighten it down with the ratchet. The torque spec is usually only around 20 ft-lbs (reference your manual), so don't overdo it.
Now replace the spark plug wire. It simply pushes onto the new plug. Then repeat this procedure for the other three spark plugs.
NOTE: Those of you with Type 4 engines will find replacing spark plugs numbers 2 and 4 quite fun. They are deep beneath the tin and are at a weird angle, so a long extension is a must, as well as a good memory, so starting the plug in its hole is easy. You may drop one of those plugs out of your socket and down onto the cylinder head, out of reach. If so, get out your handy telescoping magnet on a stick (I'm serious, you should have one of these anyway) and fish it out. If you can't get it, just leave it in there with all the other spark plugs dropped by POs. But really try to get it out as I imagine having that spark plug laying there hampers cooling somewhat.
You may also want to take this opportunity to replace your spark plug wires. Tell-tale signs of bad wires are corrosion on the terminals, stiffness of the wires (they should be soft and pliable), rough running in moist humid weather, etc. Replace your plug wires with Bosch wires. These cars run best with Bosch ignition system components. Trust me on this one. The Bosch wires usually run around $20 for the whole set, and they come with the necessary spark plug wire air seals, which seal the hole in the tin so that vital cooling air does not leak out, compromising engine cooling.
Replacing spark plug wires is very straightforward. The set will usually come with 6 wires, four for the regular spark plugs and two wires of different lengths for the lead from the ignition coil to the distributor cap center terminal.
Follow the instructions in the package for replacement. Again, do only one at a time so that there is no mix-up. You will find that the four spark plug wires are all of different lengths. Obviously the spark plug farthest from the distributor cap gets the longest one, and the closest plug gets the shorter one. Use the wire of appropriate length for the connection between the coil and distributor cap. Save the other wire and the two longest good old plug wires for your box of spares.
Make sure that all spark plug wire ends are firmly seated on their connections both at the distributor cap and spark plug ends, and also do the same for the wire from the coil to the distributor cap. Fit the wires into the existing plastic clips in various places on the engine for this purpose. This keeps them from draping against hot surfaces or wearing out by rubbing through.
Once you have done all this, you are finished. Start the car to make sure it runs fine. If it doesn't start or runs rough, re-check all your connections -- make sure you didn't get any plug wires mixed up. The firing order for all air-cooled Volkswagen engines is 1-4-3-2, so make sure the plug wires go around the distributor cap clockwise in that order.
If your old plugs were worn out or if your wires were dodgy, you will likely notice a great improvement in how your engine runs.
The spark plugs generally should be replaced every 30,000 miles. Some plugs, like the platinum spark plugs, can go longer than this. However, if the plugs become fouled or wear out before 30,000 miles, they must then be replaced sooner. Replacing the spark plugs is a fairly simple operation. It requires a special spark plug socket, and a ratchet with a few long extensions. It also requires some type of anti-seize product.
The spark plugs on an air-cooled Volkswagen engine are threaded directly into the aluminum cylinder head. Due to the different expansion rates of the spark plug metal and the cylinder head metal, the spark plugs should only be removed when the engine is cold, if possible. This reduces the chances for stripping or galling of the threads in the cylinder head.
The first step is removing the old spark plugs. To do this, you must first remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. A good tip here is to only remove one spark plug wire at a time. That way, there is no chance of possibly getting the spark plug wires mixed up. So, for orderliness, start with the spark plug for cylinder number 1. Number 1 is the front right cylinder on an air-cooled Volkswagen. There is a number stamped into the tin next to each spark plug, so observe where you are.
First remove the spark plug wire. Twist it as you pull it off. Always pull by the plastic connector, never by the wire itself. If you pull by the wire, it is likely to pull out of the plastic connector. Once you have the wire off, look down through the tin to see your spark plug staring at you. If it is a Type 1 engine you will probably only be able to see the very tip peeking out from under the tin. If you have a late Bus, you will find it easier to do this work from the open interior hatch in the luggage area. If you have a Vanagon, rejoice, this is super-easy to get to. Try to fit your spark plug socket (attached to ratchet, of course) on the spark plug. You will have to experiment with various extensions to get it on. If you find that certain engine bits are in your way (air cleaner, etc.) go ahead and remove them.
Once you've got the spark plug socket on, set your ratchet to "loosen" -- make sure, now -- and then unscrew the spark plug. It may be hard to loosen, especially if you have a long extension, but hold the extension straight and carefully loosen it. When it breaks free, unscrew it slowly, feeling for any binding. If it loosens and starts coming out but then seems to be tightening, stop. Tighten the plug up a bit and then loosen a bit. Repeat as necessary, you don't want to damage the threads, but it may not be avoidable. You can try spraying a little penetrating oil on the threads if you're that limber, but just be careful. If the plug comes out OK, be happy. If it comes out with little metal spiral shavings clinging to it, you've got a problem.
Check out the old plug. The color should be a nice even tan to gray color. It should not be physically damaged, nor should it be wet with oil or have black fluffy carbon deposits on it. Physical damage indicates that something solid got into the combustion chamber and banged around for a while. Oil fouling indicates that a lot of oil is getting into the combustion chamber. May be time for new rings or valve guides. Excessive black fluffy carbon deposits indicate a rich fuel/air mixture. This is just a basic guide of the most common things you will find. The Haynes manuals have a nice full color photo chart of various spark plug colorings and their causes. Reference this chart.
Now remove the old spark plug from your socket while thinking about what you need to do to your engine (adjust mixture, etc.). Place the new spark plug in the socket. Decide whether or not you need that little metal screw-on terminal. Did the one that came out have it? If not, you don't need it -- unscrew it. If so, keep it on there. Your spark plug wire will only fit one way. Now you need to gap the spark plug. I believe the gap should be .026", but check the manual to be sure. You check the gap between the electrode and the insulator with an appropriate feeler gauge. Bend the electrode as necessary to achieve the proper gap.
Now coat the threads of your plug with some anti-seize compound. Then remove the ratchet from your extension and hold the extension by hand. Start threading the plug into its hole this way. If your old plug came out with some metal shavings, be VERY VERY CAREFUL about how you do this. You do not want to cross-thread the new plug. However, if the old one came out with shavings, it is likely that someone else has cross-threaded the plug in the past. I personally have never had this problem but I believe the solution involves removing the cylinder head and having a thread insert installed.
This is why you want to start the plug by hand. It should start easily and turn easily as you thread it in. It should not immediately bind up in its hole. If it does, take it out and start over again as you were likely cross-threading it.
Once you get the plug hand-tight, then tighten it down with the ratchet. The torque spec is usually only around 20 ft-lbs (reference your manual), so don't overdo it.
Now replace the spark plug wire. It simply pushes onto the new plug. Then repeat this procedure for the other three spark plugs.
NOTE: Those of you with Type 4 engines will find replacing spark plugs numbers 2 and 4 quite fun. They are deep beneath the tin and are at a weird angle, so a long extension is a must, as well as a good memory, so starting the plug in its hole is easy. You may drop one of those plugs out of your socket and down onto the cylinder head, out of reach. If so, get out your handy telescoping magnet on a stick (I'm serious, you should have one of these anyway) and fish it out. If you can't get it, just leave it in there with all the other spark plugs dropped by POs. But really try to get it out as I imagine having that spark plug laying there hampers cooling somewhat.
You may also want to take this opportunity to replace your spark plug wires. Tell-tale signs of bad wires are corrosion on the terminals, stiffness of the wires (they should be soft and pliable), rough running in moist humid weather, etc. Replace your plug wires with Bosch wires. These cars run best with Bosch ignition system components. Trust me on this one. The Bosch wires usually run around $20 for the whole set, and they come with the necessary spark plug wire air seals, which seal the hole in the tin so that vital cooling air does not leak out, compromising engine cooling.
Replacing spark plug wires is very straightforward. The set will usually come with 6 wires, four for the regular spark plugs and two wires of different lengths for the lead from the ignition coil to the distributor cap center terminal.
Follow the instructions in the package for replacement. Again, do only one at a time so that there is no mix-up. You will find that the four spark plug wires are all of different lengths. Obviously the spark plug farthest from the distributor cap gets the longest one, and the closest plug gets the shorter one. Use the wire of appropriate length for the connection between the coil and distributor cap. Save the other wire and the two longest good old plug wires for your box of spares.
Make sure that all spark plug wire ends are firmly seated on their connections both at the distributor cap and spark plug ends, and also do the same for the wire from the coil to the distributor cap. Fit the wires into the existing plastic clips in various places on the engine for this purpose. This keeps them from draping against hot surfaces or wearing out by rubbing through.
Once you have done all this, you are finished. Start the car to make sure it runs fine. If it doesn't start or runs rough, re-check all your connections -- make sure you didn't get any plug wires mixed up. The firing order for all air-cooled Volkswagen engines is 1-4-3-2, so make sure the plug wires go around the distributor cap clockwise in that order.
If your old plugs were worn out or if your wires were dodgy, you will likely notice a great improvement in how your engine runs.
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