# Credit Report Basics - What Affects Your Credit Report?
By Mike Singh | 03/04/2007 | Non-Fiction
The mention of 'credit report' sends chills down the spine of people who haven't been responsible as far as managing their financials are concerned. For these people a credit report is exactly what they need to begin with. Find out more ... Read: Credit Report Basics - What Affects Your Credit Report?
# Benefits of Secured Loans Over Unsecured Loans
By Luke Ashworth | 25/05/2007 | Loans
When it comes to secured loans, there are quite a lot of benefits from applying for them over unsecured loans and that is why they are becoming more and more popular. Read: Benefits of Secured Loans Over Unsecured Loans
# Mortgage Homebuyers
By Martin Lukac | 03/04/2007 | Mortgage
Buying a home for the first time requires a few extra details. When you buy a home for the first time you must consider the contract, closing cost, originator fees, insurance, home improvement, and other specifics to make a good decision. Read: Mortgage Homebuyers
# Questions for Debt
By Martin Lukac | 03/04/2007 | Debt Consolidation
Look into the fixed rate loans if you intend to go the debt consolidation route. Fixed rates will give you constant rates whereas some of the other loans your rates may fluctuate. Read: Questions for Debt
# Debt Consolidation Loans Primer
By James Copper | 03/04/2007 | Non-Fiction
This article takes a look at the mechanics of debt consolidation loans and the options that are open to you. Read: Debt Consolidation Loans Primer
# Understanding Online Home Improvement Loan
By Dina Wilson | 03/04/2007 | Loans
Online home improvement loan satisfy any of your needs relating to the improvement of your home. This loan can be accessed both in the form of secured and unsecured loan. You can get this loan from World Wide Web. Read: Understanding Online Home Improvement Loan
Saturday, June 2, 2007
Saturday, May 26, 2007
New Car Protection
New Car Protection
By: Danny Argent , Posted On: 2007-05-26
There is nothing quite like the feeling of getting a new car, it would be really nice if your car could be new the whole time you own it, not least because a few years down the line when you come to sell it you will sell it quicker, easier and get more money for it.You are probably agreeing with me, yet so few people do anything much to keep the car in it's current condition. You will probably run it through a car wash once in a while, maybe get it detailed/valeted once a year but that's it... what else is there you can do?
The first thing you should always do is look at your old car with a critical eye, work out what is wrong with it. The chances are that unless you change your habits then your new car will end up looking much like your old one. For example, are there scratches down the sides? What caused this? Was it the kids trying to squeeze past with their bikes? Was it caused by overhanging bushes on your driveway?
What about scuffs and wear on the seats? Kerb marks on the wheels? Stone chips on the front? Now is your chance to play at CSI. If you can figure out the cause of the wear or damage, there is a fair chance you can change your ways and prevent it happening again to your new car.
Protective coatings
You can now get protective coatings for just about every part of a car. You wouldn't think about running your engine without oil because you know that the moving parts need the oil's protective qualities to prevent wear, so it makes sense to apply a protective sacrificial barrier to the parts of a car which make up its general appearance. These days cars are very reliable so when buying a used car the expectation is that it will be mechanically sound, this means that the value will be judged mainly on cosmetic appearance.
Wheels
I'll start off with the wheels (not bodywork) because no other singe factor can make or break a car's overall appearance. Tatty wheels add years to a car. There are now a number of wheel protectors on the market that are really effective. They are much like a car wax but especially designed to protect alloy, painted and chrome wheels which are closer to the road and take more punishment than any other part of the car. These wheel protection products will make your wheels easier to clean and prevent stains (but they aren't bullet proof, so don't bump your car up and down kerbs. Scuffs and kerb marks are to be avoided at all costs). Ensure that you clean your wheels often to prevent a build-up of brake dust which harbours corrosive contaminants, re-applying your wheel protector each time. One final word on wheels. If your dealership offers you an alternative to chrome wheels - take it! This 'bling' may look good on a new car but chrome wheels are murder to keep clean and free of stains. And should you kerb your wheels they are very expensive to refurbish.
Bodywork
Paint protection technology has come on leaps and bounds over the last few years. Not only does this mean that your paintwork can stay fresh looking, but you have to put in less work! You no longer have to wax and polish your car every couple of weeks, the 3, 5, and 7 year paint protection packages offered at the dealerships are very effective. The market leaders in the UK are Supagard and Diamondbrite and although they can be quite a lot of money, they are worth every penny -- not only will you gain this money back when you sell, but you will spend far less of your precious free time cleaning, waxing and polishing your car.
As good as they are, you still have to clean your car, and this is where most people hit problems. Don't use an automated car wash if you value your paintwork. The brushes used are far too harsh and scratch your paintwork, the touchless washes are not as bad but don't get your car very clean. All-in-all just stay clear of them.
The next option is the one most people seem to be going for these days, and that is the hand car wash. It seems the going rate is around £5. I can only tell you that there is a huge danger that you will get what you pay for... which is somebody who is over-worked-and-under-paid, scrubbing their car down with dirty water and a manky old sponge! They don't care about your car, they don't even care about getting it clean, they only care about getting it done and moving on to the next one. The results can be horrific and often I have seen paintwork damaged beyond repair.They aren't all bad but choose wisely, watch these people working before you buy. Stay well clear of the supermarket washes and only go to a proper company with a fixed location.
If you really want the job done properly, the only way is to clean the car yourself. I cannot recommend this enough, besides being good exercise (and lets face it, I need it!) it also allows you to thoroughly inspect your car meaning you can keep on top of any problems and get them fixed as soon as possible, which is the best way.
Stone Chips
Stone chips are almost impossible to avoid but there are two ways to reduce them. The first is to reduce your speed and keep your distance from the car in-front. The second is to have a stone-chip film fitted to your car. This is a thing rubbery clear film which absorbs the impact of flying objects (including bugs which can cause more damage than you might think!). The a good quality and properly fitted film is virtually invisible but will make a huge ifference.Depending on the size and style of your car it costs around £300 to £600 which may seem a lot, until you consider the cost of a respray and the effect this can have on your car's residual value.
upholstery
Many cars these days come with leather as an enticement to buy. keep in mind that if you are the kind of person who likes to wear blue jeans, your upholstery will end up stained blue and scored by rivets in no time at all. Leather just doesn't suit everybody, such as people with dogs! There are a number of companies producing seat covers including ones especially for protecting your car from pets. Leather wears less when it is supple so condition it twice a year and maybe 3 times a year for convertibles.
Fabric can be treated with chemicals which are a bit like Scotchgard which is provided on household carpets. It doesn't stop them getting dirty but it does prevent permanent stains and makes them much easier to clean. Maintain them by wiping them over with a damp microfibre cloth every couple of weeks.
Little and often
Dirt is abrasive, it is what causes much of the wear to your car. On the exterior it can also harbour corrosive contaminants which eat away at paintwork. So clean regularly, this will also make your life easier because it's easy to clean a car which is already fairly clean.
Article Directory: http://www.articlecube.com
Resources -- www.valetshop.co.uk/ - Products to help you keep your car in tip-top condition. Carefully selected by the author of this article, all of the products listed are actually used in the day-to-day running of our auto detailing business. www.carcareadvice.co.uk/ - A website full of practical car care advice.
Monday, April 23, 2007
Gears Gear-up Your Machines
Gears are one of the most basic transmission devices. You have heard about gears in cars, bicycles, and many types of machines. If you are not a mechanical engineer, you will be amazed by the extent to which gears affect our daily life. As any student of mechanical engineering will tell you, gears are at the heart of any machinery. This is a basic article to tell you what gears actually do.
There are two basic functions that gears perform.
First, they make power travel from one part of a machine to another. For instance, when you are pedaling a bicycle, it is the arrangement of gears that causes the transmission of power from your leg movement to the rotation of the wheels. Likewise with most other forms of gear based machines.
Second, gears act as reducers. Thereby, they reduce the output speed but increase the torque. To understand this, once again consider the example of a bicycle. If you are climbing up a slope, you move to a smaller gear. This reduces the speed at which the cycle moves, but it increases the power generated by the rotation of the wheels. Hence, on the whole cycling-up the slope becomes easier. A similar example could be considered for a stick-shift car, whereby, you climb up steep slopes in a lower gear.
And to think that in their simplest form, gears are nothing but an interlinked pair of toothed wheels. But, gears can get more complicated. For instance, we could have a chain of gears when gear-one rotates gear-two, which rotates gear-three and so on. Likewise, we could have a situation where one of the toothed elements is a cylinder, while the other is a disc. Also, again going back to the example of the cycle, we could have the two gears separated by some distance, but interlinked by a chain, or other transmitting device.
Friday, April 20, 2007
There are a variety of 6 ways that you can save money.
In the past months we have seen the price of gasoline soar higher than ever before, and this can be hard on people who have a budget that is tight. Even though gas prices have come down a slight bit, you still will want to do everything you possibly can to save on the money you have to pay out for gas. There are a variety of ways that you can save gas, and save money.
Tip#1 - Start Carpooling
Carpooling is a great idea for fellow students and fellow employees both. If you can find people that are going to the same place you are you can save gas by riding together. It may be a good idea to trade off on who is driving from week to week so no one person gets stuck having to drive all the time. If you have to take your children to school or other functions you can also work on trading off with your friends and neighbors to take them there.
Tip#2 - Public Transportation
If it is possible you can take public transportation to work instead of driving your car. Not only will this save you money on gas, but you will also be able to relax and not worry about having to drive through all that rush hour traffic. You may even be able to fit in a quick nap on your way to work or on your way home.
Tip#3 - Price Shop
Often it may be so convenient to buy your gas at the small gas station just up the road, but to save some money on gas you may want to check the prices at other gas stations that are nearby as well. Even if the difference is only a few cents, after putting hundreds of gallons of gas in you vehicle each year, those few cents are going to add up to quite a sum of money.
Tip#4 - Get Moving
You can save some money on gas if you start walking to where you are going, or you can ride a bike as well. You will not have to worry about paying to park your car, and the exercise will be great for you body. If you are walking or biking you will not have to worry about those huge traffic jams either.
Tip#5 - Take Care of Your Car
It is always important to take care of your car so it gets the best gas mileage possible. Also be sure to plan where you are going before you go so you will not have to backtrack and waste gas. If you can, you should use your air conditioning as little as possible because using it takes more gas. Roll down your windows and you will use less gas.
Tip#6 - Check your Tires
It is important that you check the air pressure in your tires as often as possible. If your tires are too low, or the pressure in them is unequal it can make your car burn more gas. You should also be careful how you drive. If you take off from every red light very fast you are going to burn more fuel, so it is best to take off a little slower.
These are a few tips that can help the money conscious person to save money on gas. Even as gas prices drop, these tips can still help you to save more money. Conservation is important, so take advantage of these tips, save money, and save gas.
About The Author
Jackson Porter is a staff writer at http://www.automobileenthusiast.com and is an occasional contributor to several other websites, including http://www.environmental-central.com.
Thursday, March 29, 2007
Car Loan - Tips Can Help Drive Smart Loan Deals
Many new car buyers will appreciate the latest automotive trends expected to take shape in 2006 and beyond. A greater variety of downsized, fuel-efficient SUVs will be available. New vehicle safety features like tire pressure monitors will reach the market. And sales promotions like last summer’s employee discount campaign are expected to set the stage for year-round, no-haggle vehicle pricing.
But a less-publicized automotive trend – rising interest rates – will make 0-percent car loans a rare breed in 2006. Increasingly, consumers will need to comparison shop for their car loans before they go to buy, just as they do for the vehicles themselves.
According to Bankrate.com, interest rates on new car loans rose steadily throughout 2005 and the pattern is expected to continue into 2006. The difference of just two percentage points on your APR can either save or cost you more than $1,400 over the life of a typical loan.
"Many consumers do not realize that they have other options for financing their car, outside of the dealership," said Brian Reed, vice president of Capital One Auto Finance. "There are some great options for consumers to finance their car on a direct basis, versus relying on the dealer to provide that service for you."
Because education is the key to getting the best deal when financing a car, Capital One Auto Finance offers prospective car buyers the following helpful tips:
Set a realistic budget. Choose a vehicle that won’t overextend you financially. A general rule of thumb is that no more than 15 percent to 20 percent of your total monthly budget should go toward all your car-related expenses.
Verify your credit record. Order a copy of your credit report to ensure it’s accurate and in good shape. Correct any errors before applying for a loan.
Comparison shop for loans. Check out credit unions, banks and online lenders to see what rates are available in the market, so that you know a competitive rate when you see one. Visit Web sites such as www.bankrate.com and www.capitaloneautofinance.com.
Arrive with financing in your pocket. Having approved, no-obligation financing in hand gives you a competitive advantage when you go to buy, giving you the power of a cash buyer. If the dealer offers a better loan rate, you can take it with no penalty.
Approach your purchase as three transactions. It’s best to treat each part of the purchase separately: 1) financing; 2) trade-in; and 3) vehicle purchase. This will simplify the process and maximize your negotiating opportunities.
Match length of loan to expected length of ownership. Select your loan term based on how long you plan to own the vehicle. Buyers who take out longer-term loans can find themselves “upside down” on their loan (owing more money on the car than it’s worth in trade).
Review your financing terms carefully. Make sure you know your interest rate, monthly payment, amount you are financing, the length of your loan and your trade-in value.
“If car buyers would spend just a fraction of the time researching their auto loan as they do the latest features on their new car, they’d be surprised at how much money they could save,” said Reed of Capital One.
About The Author
Alan Luong is the site owner of http://www.dezeinfo.com/. A loan site with a lot of useful information on many different types of loan, and useful loan tips to help loan searchers to avoid scam.
webmaster@dezeinfo.com
But a less-publicized automotive trend – rising interest rates – will make 0-percent car loans a rare breed in 2006. Increasingly, consumers will need to comparison shop for their car loans before they go to buy, just as they do for the vehicles themselves.
According to Bankrate.com, interest rates on new car loans rose steadily throughout 2005 and the pattern is expected to continue into 2006. The difference of just two percentage points on your APR can either save or cost you more than $1,400 over the life of a typical loan.
"Many consumers do not realize that they have other options for financing their car, outside of the dealership," said Brian Reed, vice president of Capital One Auto Finance. "There are some great options for consumers to finance their car on a direct basis, versus relying on the dealer to provide that service for you."
Because education is the key to getting the best deal when financing a car, Capital One Auto Finance offers prospective car buyers the following helpful tips:
Set a realistic budget. Choose a vehicle that won’t overextend you financially. A general rule of thumb is that no more than 15 percent to 20 percent of your total monthly budget should go toward all your car-related expenses.
Verify your credit record. Order a copy of your credit report to ensure it’s accurate and in good shape. Correct any errors before applying for a loan.
Comparison shop for loans. Check out credit unions, banks and online lenders to see what rates are available in the market, so that you know a competitive rate when you see one. Visit Web sites such as www.bankrate.com and www.capitaloneautofinance.com.
Arrive with financing in your pocket. Having approved, no-obligation financing in hand gives you a competitive advantage when you go to buy, giving you the power of a cash buyer. If the dealer offers a better loan rate, you can take it with no penalty.
Approach your purchase as three transactions. It’s best to treat each part of the purchase separately: 1) financing; 2) trade-in; and 3) vehicle purchase. This will simplify the process and maximize your negotiating opportunities.
Match length of loan to expected length of ownership. Select your loan term based on how long you plan to own the vehicle. Buyers who take out longer-term loans can find themselves “upside down” on their loan (owing more money on the car than it’s worth in trade).
Review your financing terms carefully. Make sure you know your interest rate, monthly payment, amount you are financing, the length of your loan and your trade-in value.
“If car buyers would spend just a fraction of the time researching their auto loan as they do the latest features on their new car, they’d be surprised at how much money they could save,” said Reed of Capital One.
About The Author
Alan Luong is the site owner of http://www.dezeinfo.com/. A loan site with a lot of useful information on many different types of loan, and useful loan tips to help loan searchers to avoid scam.
webmaster@dezeinfo.com
Tuesday, March 27, 2007
Best Car Wash and Wax Tips from the Pros
It is a proven fact that the better your car looks the higher the value you will get at resale or trade-in. Proper car care to include washing, waxing, and polishing will not only make your car look its best, but will help retain its value and make it last longer. For the purpose of this article we questioned numerous detailing experts and other similar professionals as to what works best. Here are their best car care recommendations:
Start by using a garage or shaded area. The hot sun will make proper car care and cleaning hard, if not impossible and could be detrimental to your car’s finish. Next thoroughly wet down the car. This will remove dirt and road debris which will cause scratches if you skip this step and start using a sponge and soap on the car. If it is a hot day, be sure to routinely wet the car so it does not dry suds or cleaning chemicals on it.
Next use a car wash solution, don’t use general purpose detergents and cleaners that were never meant for car care and car washing. A car wash solution will not dry out your paint or strip and possibly remove protective coatings. A long armed, soft bristled wash brush will greatly reduce the time it takes to thoroughly clean your car. It will also make it easier on your back and muscles. A good quality brush can be cheaply obtained at Walmart for about $10-$15 – buy one, you will be glad you did. When you have finished washing the whole car, use a chamois to dry off your car. A chamois will remove water quickly and not leave lint which terry cloths are prone to do. Routinely washing your car will remove things like bird droppings, bugs and industrial fallout which are all detrimental to your car’s paint and finish. If there is road tar or stubborn bugs left after washing you should use a bug and tar remover prior to waxing and polishing.
It is a good idea to follow washing with the application of a cleaner/polish. This will remove minor imperfections in the paint caused by the environment and sun damage, remove minor scratches, and provide a good surface for car wax or car polish. Follow the directions on the bottle. Basically you apply cleaner wax as you would wax – in a circular motion and you treat one area or panel at a time. Use modest pressure and then let dry to a whitish haze. Buff with a clean cloth towel and reapply as necessary.
Then you need to decide whether to use car wax or a polymer car polish. According to the experts, carnauba car wax has the deepest and wettest looking shine, but it is also the weakest protection for the harsh environment (acid rain, extreme temperature ranges, bird droppings, etc…). Car polish is easier to apply as it requires less effort to apply and remove. It will also last much longer (some have polymers and even Teflon and will last as long as 52 car washes after 1 application). Car polish will still give you that new car look and was the unanimous recommendation from our experts for any outdoor use (car wax was recommended mostly for car shows). Both car polish and car wax are applied in the same way and many come with a cloth or foam applicator. Apply in a small circular motion same as with the cleaner/polish. Car polish will go on easier and come off easier than car wax and requires only one coat for great protection in any climate. After allowing it to dry to a haze, buff it off, but use a microfiber towel as it will leave a smoother finish quicker and without any lint.
The above recommended steps for properly washing, waxing and polishing your car will leave you with the best shine, maximum protection, make your car last, and maintain its highest value. Remember, a little proper car care can and will go a long way.
It is a proven fact that the better your car looks the higher the value you will get at resale or trade-in. Proper car care to include washing, waxing, and polishing will not only make your car look its best, but will help retain its value and make it last longer. For the purpose of this article we questioned numerous detailing experts and other similar professionals as to what works best. Here are their best car care recommendations:
Start by using a garage or shaded area. The hot sun will make proper car care and cleaning hard, if not impossible and could be detrimental to your car’s finish. Next thoroughly wet down the car. This will remove dirt and road debris which will cause scratches if you skip this step and start using a sponge and soap on the car. If it is a hot day, be sure to routinely wet the car so it does not dry suds or cleaning chemicals on it.
Next use a car wash solution, don’t use general purpose detergents and cleaners that were never meant for car care and car washing. A car wash solution will not dry out your paint or strip and possibly remove protective coatings. A long armed, soft bristled wash brush will greatly reduce the time it takes to thoroughly clean your car. It will also make it easier on your back and muscles. A good quality brush can be cheaply obtained at Walmart for about $10-$15 – buy one, you will be glad you did. When you have finished washing the whole car, use a chamois to dry off your car. A chamois will remove water quickly and not leave lint which terry cloths are prone to do. Routinely washing your car will remove things like bird droppings, bugs and industrial fallout which are all detrimental to your car’s paint and finish. If there is road tar or stubborn bugs left after washing you should use a bug and tar remover prior to waxing and polishing.
It is a good idea to follow washing with the application of a cleaner/polish. This will remove minor imperfections in the paint caused by the environment and sun damage, remove minor scratches, and provide a good surface for car wax or car polish. Follow the directions on the bottle. Basically you apply cleaner wax as you would wax – in a circular motion and you treat one area or panel at a time. Use modest pressure and then let dry to a whitish haze. Buff with a clean cloth towel and reapply as necessary.
Then you need to decide whether to use car wax or a polymer car polish. According to the experts, carnauba car wax has the deepest and wettest looking shine, but it is also the weakest protection for the harsh environment (acid rain, extreme temperature ranges, bird droppings, etc…). Car polish is easier to apply as it requires less effort to apply and remove. It will also last much longer (some have polymers and even Teflon and will last as long as 52 car washes after 1 application). Car polish will still give you that new car look and was the unanimous recommendation from our experts for any outdoor use (car wax was recommended mostly for car shows). Both car polish and car wax are applied in the same way and many come with a cloth or foam applicator. Apply in a small circular motion same as with the cleaner/polish. Car polish will go on easier and come off easier than car wax and requires only one coat for great protection in any climate. After allowing it to dry to a haze, buff it off, but use a microfiber towel as it will leave a smoother finish quicker and without any lint.
The above recommended steps for properly washing, waxing and polishing your car will leave you with the best shine, maximum protection, make your car last, and maintain its highest value. Remember, a little proper car care can and will go a long way.
Article Source: http://www.redsofts.com/articles/
Start by using a garage or shaded area. The hot sun will make proper car care and cleaning hard, if not impossible and could be detrimental to your car’s finish. Next thoroughly wet down the car. This will remove dirt and road debris which will cause scratches if you skip this step and start using a sponge and soap on the car. If it is a hot day, be sure to routinely wet the car so it does not dry suds or cleaning chemicals on it.
Next use a car wash solution, don’t use general purpose detergents and cleaners that were never meant for car care and car washing. A car wash solution will not dry out your paint or strip and possibly remove protective coatings. A long armed, soft bristled wash brush will greatly reduce the time it takes to thoroughly clean your car. It will also make it easier on your back and muscles. A good quality brush can be cheaply obtained at Walmart for about $10-$15 – buy one, you will be glad you did. When you have finished washing the whole car, use a chamois to dry off your car. A chamois will remove water quickly and not leave lint which terry cloths are prone to do. Routinely washing your car will remove things like bird droppings, bugs and industrial fallout which are all detrimental to your car’s paint and finish. If there is road tar or stubborn bugs left after washing you should use a bug and tar remover prior to waxing and polishing.
It is a good idea to follow washing with the application of a cleaner/polish. This will remove minor imperfections in the paint caused by the environment and sun damage, remove minor scratches, and provide a good surface for car wax or car polish. Follow the directions on the bottle. Basically you apply cleaner wax as you would wax – in a circular motion and you treat one area or panel at a time. Use modest pressure and then let dry to a whitish haze. Buff with a clean cloth towel and reapply as necessary.
Then you need to decide whether to use car wax or a polymer car polish. According to the experts, carnauba car wax has the deepest and wettest looking shine, but it is also the weakest protection for the harsh environment (acid rain, extreme temperature ranges, bird droppings, etc…). Car polish is easier to apply as it requires less effort to apply and remove. It will also last much longer (some have polymers and even Teflon and will last as long as 52 car washes after 1 application). Car polish will still give you that new car look and was the unanimous recommendation from our experts for any outdoor use (car wax was recommended mostly for car shows). Both car polish and car wax are applied in the same way and many come with a cloth or foam applicator. Apply in a small circular motion same as with the cleaner/polish. Car polish will go on easier and come off easier than car wax and requires only one coat for great protection in any climate. After allowing it to dry to a haze, buff it off, but use a microfiber towel as it will leave a smoother finish quicker and without any lint.
The above recommended steps for properly washing, waxing and polishing your car will leave you with the best shine, maximum protection, make your car last, and maintain its highest value. Remember, a little proper car care can and will go a long way.
It is a proven fact that the better your car looks the higher the value you will get at resale or trade-in. Proper car care to include washing, waxing, and polishing will not only make your car look its best, but will help retain its value and make it last longer. For the purpose of this article we questioned numerous detailing experts and other similar professionals as to what works best. Here are their best car care recommendations:
Start by using a garage or shaded area. The hot sun will make proper car care and cleaning hard, if not impossible and could be detrimental to your car’s finish. Next thoroughly wet down the car. This will remove dirt and road debris which will cause scratches if you skip this step and start using a sponge and soap on the car. If it is a hot day, be sure to routinely wet the car so it does not dry suds or cleaning chemicals on it.
Next use a car wash solution, don’t use general purpose detergents and cleaners that were never meant for car care and car washing. A car wash solution will not dry out your paint or strip and possibly remove protective coatings. A long armed, soft bristled wash brush will greatly reduce the time it takes to thoroughly clean your car. It will also make it easier on your back and muscles. A good quality brush can be cheaply obtained at Walmart for about $10-$15 – buy one, you will be glad you did. When you have finished washing the whole car, use a chamois to dry off your car. A chamois will remove water quickly and not leave lint which terry cloths are prone to do. Routinely washing your car will remove things like bird droppings, bugs and industrial fallout which are all detrimental to your car’s paint and finish. If there is road tar or stubborn bugs left after washing you should use a bug and tar remover prior to waxing and polishing.
It is a good idea to follow washing with the application of a cleaner/polish. This will remove minor imperfections in the paint caused by the environment and sun damage, remove minor scratches, and provide a good surface for car wax or car polish. Follow the directions on the bottle. Basically you apply cleaner wax as you would wax – in a circular motion and you treat one area or panel at a time. Use modest pressure and then let dry to a whitish haze. Buff with a clean cloth towel and reapply as necessary.
Then you need to decide whether to use car wax or a polymer car polish. According to the experts, carnauba car wax has the deepest and wettest looking shine, but it is also the weakest protection for the harsh environment (acid rain, extreme temperature ranges, bird droppings, etc…). Car polish is easier to apply as it requires less effort to apply and remove. It will also last much longer (some have polymers and even Teflon and will last as long as 52 car washes after 1 application). Car polish will still give you that new car look and was the unanimous recommendation from our experts for any outdoor use (car wax was recommended mostly for car shows). Both car polish and car wax are applied in the same way and many come with a cloth or foam applicator. Apply in a small circular motion same as with the cleaner/polish. Car polish will go on easier and come off easier than car wax and requires only one coat for great protection in any climate. After allowing it to dry to a haze, buff it off, but use a microfiber towel as it will leave a smoother finish quicker and without any lint.
The above recommended steps for properly washing, waxing and polishing your car will leave you with the best shine, maximum protection, make your car last, and maintain its highest value. Remember, a little proper car care can and will go a long way.
Article Source: http://www.redsofts.com/articles/
Monday, March 26, 2007
Skoda brand in Australia
In the news: Skoda, Volkswagen subsidiary and recipient of VW exhaust part will once again try its luck in the Australian market after 25 years. Volkswagen plans to introduce its Skoda brand in Australia this coming October. Matthew Weisner, Volkswagen Group of Australia general manager, press and public relations have been appointed as head of Skoda Australia and his duty includes the re-launch of the Skoda brand. Although a bit reluctant Weisner said that he will do his best to promote Skoda to the Australian market.
Skoda’s lineup for Australia includes the following:
• Fabia – this Volkswagen Polo-sized light car derived its styling cues from the Mini Cooper and Suzuki Swift. The Fabia was launched last year at the Paris Motor Show. It offers economical, three-cylinder, HTP short for High Tech Performance petrol and TDI engines. It also offers 16-valve, 63kW, 1.4 liter and 77kW, 1.6 liter petrol models. The 1.6 liter petrol engine is offered with a six-speed tiptronic automatic. Both the 1.4 and 1.6 petrol units are to be brought to Australia.
The Fabia has a length measuring at 3992 mm long and with a wheelbase of 2462 mm. Comparing it to the Polo, the Fabia is approximately 76 mm longer overall and 3mm longer on the wheelbase. It also possesses 300 liters of luggage space. The Fabia that will be sold in Australia will also feature six airbags, climate control airconditioning and active headlights. The Fabia will be priced at $16,000.
• Octavia – the Octavia bears similar features with the VW Passat and just like the latter, the Octaivia is a mid-size offered either as a front-wheel-drive sedan and wagon. It will also be made to compete with the premium priced Japanese models with the likes of Honda Accord Euro, Mazda6, Subaru Liberty, and soon-to-be Ford Mondeo.
The Octavia is powered by a range of petrol and turbo-diesel engines ranging from 110kW, 2 liter FSI up to a 125kW, 2liter TDI and 147kW, 2 litre FSI four cylinder in the RS. Likewise, a 1.4 liter model will also be made available for Australia along with the five and six-speed manual transmissions with the addition of a six-speed VW-sourced DSG manual. The price of the Octavia is about $30,000.
• Superb – this is an essentially long-wheelbase version of the Octavia designed for the higher end of the market. The Superb is spacious offering extra legroom in the back and plenty of leather and luxury. The Superb is equipped with the Passat’s older 142kW, 2.8 liter V6 petrol and 120 kW, 2.5 liter six cylinder TDI engines which are both available with a tiptronic five-speed automatic.
This long-wheelbase sedan is available in Europe with a 110kW, turbocharged 1.8 liter and naturally aspirated 85 kW, 2 liter four cylinder engine. The price for the Superb is about $45,000.
• Roomster – this vehicle started as a funky concept car at the 2003 Frankfurt Motor Show while a production version was unveiled last year. The Roomster is distinguished by its high-set, van like styling. Its versatile, five-door concept is similar to the VW Caddy that is quickly converted from a five-seater into a load-lugging two-seater vehicle.
The Roomster Scout adds plastic-cladding around the body which provides it with an off-road look despite the fact that it is a front-wheel drive vehicle. The price of the Roomster is about $27,000.
In addition, Volkswagen also plans to introduce in Australia next year the VW Polo-sized Fabia. This Fabia was previously presented at the Geneva Motor Show. Likewise, by 2009 Volkswagen will launch a new generation version of its long-wheelbase Surperb sedan.
Skoda’s lineup for Australia includes the following:
• Fabia – this Volkswagen Polo-sized light car derived its styling cues from the Mini Cooper and Suzuki Swift. The Fabia was launched last year at the Paris Motor Show. It offers economical, three-cylinder, HTP short for High Tech Performance petrol and TDI engines. It also offers 16-valve, 63kW, 1.4 liter and 77kW, 1.6 liter petrol models. The 1.6 liter petrol engine is offered with a six-speed tiptronic automatic. Both the 1.4 and 1.6 petrol units are to be brought to Australia.
The Fabia has a length measuring at 3992 mm long and with a wheelbase of 2462 mm. Comparing it to the Polo, the Fabia is approximately 76 mm longer overall and 3mm longer on the wheelbase. It also possesses 300 liters of luggage space. The Fabia that will be sold in Australia will also feature six airbags, climate control airconditioning and active headlights. The Fabia will be priced at $16,000.
• Octavia – the Octavia bears similar features with the VW Passat and just like the latter, the Octaivia is a mid-size offered either as a front-wheel-drive sedan and wagon. It will also be made to compete with the premium priced Japanese models with the likes of Honda Accord Euro, Mazda6, Subaru Liberty, and soon-to-be Ford Mondeo.
The Octavia is powered by a range of petrol and turbo-diesel engines ranging from 110kW, 2 liter FSI up to a 125kW, 2liter TDI and 147kW, 2 litre FSI four cylinder in the RS. Likewise, a 1.4 liter model will also be made available for Australia along with the five and six-speed manual transmissions with the addition of a six-speed VW-sourced DSG manual. The price of the Octavia is about $30,000.
• Superb – this is an essentially long-wheelbase version of the Octavia designed for the higher end of the market. The Superb is spacious offering extra legroom in the back and plenty of leather and luxury. The Superb is equipped with the Passat’s older 142kW, 2.8 liter V6 petrol and 120 kW, 2.5 liter six cylinder TDI engines which are both available with a tiptronic five-speed automatic.
This long-wheelbase sedan is available in Europe with a 110kW, turbocharged 1.8 liter and naturally aspirated 85 kW, 2 liter four cylinder engine. The price for the Superb is about $45,000.
• Roomster – this vehicle started as a funky concept car at the 2003 Frankfurt Motor Show while a production version was unveiled last year. The Roomster is distinguished by its high-set, van like styling. Its versatile, five-door concept is similar to the VW Caddy that is quickly converted from a five-seater into a load-lugging two-seater vehicle.
The Roomster Scout adds plastic-cladding around the body which provides it with an off-road look despite the fact that it is a front-wheel drive vehicle. The price of the Roomster is about $27,000.
In addition, Volkswagen also plans to introduce in Australia next year the VW Polo-sized Fabia. This Fabia was previously presented at the Geneva Motor Show. Likewise, by 2009 Volkswagen will launch a new generation version of its long-wheelbase Surperb sedan.
Saturday, March 24, 2007
car condominiums
Car condos (also known as car condominiums) are individual, climate-controlled parking garages people can buy to store their exotic cars, motorcycles, boats and other items. Amenities include private bathrooms, concierge services, 24-hour security and clubhouses to entertain guests. Like a traditional condominium, a car condo is real estate where the owner owns the unit where the car is stored. The common areas of the car condo building are jointly owned by all the tenants and the car condo owner pays a monthly maintenance fee for their use.
Car condo developers are marketing their projects to the following demographic:
1) The classic car owner who wishes to store his/her vehicle in an optimum environment.
2) A person who has a secondary residence in a popular vacation destination (e.g. South Florida, Las Vegas, Scottsdale) and wishes to keep a car year-round at that destination.
3) A resident of an urban area (e.g. New York City) where parking a car is exorbitantly expensive and where the car owner wishes a property interest in return for the large monthly parking outlay.
Car condo complexes offer a variety of service offerings from webcams where owners can peek at their vehicles over the internet to private bathrooms for their owners to use.
Car condo developers are marketing their projects to the following demographic:
1) The classic car owner who wishes to store his/her vehicle in an optimum environment.
2) A person who has a secondary residence in a popular vacation destination (e.g. South Florida, Las Vegas, Scottsdale) and wishes to keep a car year-round at that destination.
3) A resident of an urban area (e.g. New York City) where parking a car is exorbitantly expensive and where the car owner wishes a property interest in return for the large monthly parking outlay.
Car condo complexes offer a variety of service offerings from webcams where owners can peek at their vehicles over the internet to private bathrooms for their owners to use.
Friday, March 23, 2007
Suspension
Suspension is one area where a dramatic increase in performance can be gained simply by upgrading components. The syncro has the potential to have pretty good suspension, but the stock components are not up to the job. Better shocks, springs and suspension-related bushings can significantly enhance the feel and performance of the vehicle. Ground clearance can also be modestly increased through stiffer or taller springs. But increasing ride height beyond stock specs will result in increased stresses on and even premature failure of the CV joints, and may increase risk of a rollover accident..
Overview
The goal when upgrading the suspension should be to maximize the performance of the existing design. That means keeping static ride height within the range that the system was designed for in order to avoid topping out problems and to permit the wheels to drop into holes. Maximum static ride height for the Syncro is roughly 19.4 inches, measuring from axle center to the lower lip of the (metal) fender).
The damping on the stock Boge shocks and on the Old Man Emu shocks (which are valved a little stiffer than the Boge "C") also impose limitations. Both shocks are valved for 14" wheels (except the Boge "N" shocks are valved for 16" syncros) and neither is re-valvable or adjustable. This puts an effective limit on tire/wheel weights and spring stiffness options that will in fact result in optimized performance.
Specifically, a custom spring that is more than modestly stiffer than stock or a wheel/tire combination that is more than modestly heavier than the stock 14" setup will impose forces beyond the performance parameters of the damping of the available shocks.
Consequently, if you want to upgrade to bigger wheels and tires, the more they weigh than the stockers, the more they will impact negatively on suspension performance due to inadequate damping/valving of the shocks. The van will top out easier and the front end will pop wheelies easier over whoop-de-doo type bumps, especially at speed. It may affect cornering, too. In addition, if a custom spring is too stiff for the stock shock rebound valving, it will also cause the vehicle to feel too bouncy and too busy over bumps. The further away from stock you get in wheel/tire weight and spring stiffness, the worse the symptoms will be.
For this reason, unless you are going to have custom shocks made, or are going to purchase Boge "N" shocks for the 16" syncro, or do not mind some degradation of suspension performance, it is best to stay reasonably close to both stock spring stiffness and stock wheel/tire weight when making upgrades. Choice of tires is also critical to suspension performance since the tires work with and act as a de facto component of the suspension.
Overview
The goal when upgrading the suspension should be to maximize the performance of the existing design. That means keeping static ride height within the range that the system was designed for in order to avoid topping out problems and to permit the wheels to drop into holes. Maximum static ride height for the Syncro is roughly 19.4 inches, measuring from axle center to the lower lip of the (metal) fender).
The damping on the stock Boge shocks and on the Old Man Emu shocks (which are valved a little stiffer than the Boge "C") also impose limitations. Both shocks are valved for 14" wheels (except the Boge "N" shocks are valved for 16" syncros) and neither is re-valvable or adjustable. This puts an effective limit on tire/wheel weights and spring stiffness options that will in fact result in optimized performance.
Specifically, a custom spring that is more than modestly stiffer than stock or a wheel/tire combination that is more than modestly heavier than the stock 14" setup will impose forces beyond the performance parameters of the damping of the available shocks.
Consequently, if you want to upgrade to bigger wheels and tires, the more they weigh than the stockers, the more they will impact negatively on suspension performance due to inadequate damping/valving of the shocks. The van will top out easier and the front end will pop wheelies easier over whoop-de-doo type bumps, especially at speed. It may affect cornering, too. In addition, if a custom spring is too stiff for the stock shock rebound valving, it will also cause the vehicle to feel too bouncy and too busy over bumps. The further away from stock you get in wheel/tire weight and spring stiffness, the worse the symptoms will be.
For this reason, unless you are going to have custom shocks made, or are going to purchase Boge "N" shocks for the 16" syncro, or do not mind some degradation of suspension performance, it is best to stay reasonably close to both stock spring stiffness and stock wheel/tire weight when making upgrades. Choice of tires is also critical to suspension performance since the tires work with and act as a de facto component of the suspension.
Spark plug socket
This procedure will generally apply to all air-cooled Volkswagens.
The spark plugs generally should be replaced every 30,000 miles. Some plugs, like the platinum spark plugs, can go longer than this. However, if the plugs become fouled or wear out before 30,000 miles, they must then be replaced sooner. Replacing the spark plugs is a fairly simple operation. It requires a special spark plug socket, and a ratchet with a few long extensions. It also requires some type of anti-seize product.
The spark plugs on an air-cooled Volkswagen engine are threaded directly into the aluminum cylinder head. Due to the different expansion rates of the spark plug metal and the cylinder head metal, the spark plugs should only be removed when the engine is cold, if possible. This reduces the chances for stripping or galling of the threads in the cylinder head.
The first step is removing the old spark plugs. To do this, you must first remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. A good tip here is to only remove one spark plug wire at a time. That way, there is no chance of possibly getting the spark plug wires mixed up. So, for orderliness, start with the spark plug for cylinder number 1. Number 1 is the front right cylinder on an air-cooled Volkswagen. There is a number stamped into the tin next to each spark plug, so observe where you are.
First remove the spark plug wire. Twist it as you pull it off. Always pull by the plastic connector, never by the wire itself. If you pull by the wire, it is likely to pull out of the plastic connector. Once you have the wire off, look down through the tin to see your spark plug staring at you. If it is a Type 1 engine you will probably only be able to see the very tip peeking out from under the tin. If you have a late Bus, you will find it easier to do this work from the open interior hatch in the luggage area. If you have a Vanagon, rejoice, this is super-easy to get to. Try to fit your spark plug socket (attached to ratchet, of course) on the spark plug. You will have to experiment with various extensions to get it on. If you find that certain engine bits are in your way (air cleaner, etc.) go ahead and remove them.
Once you've got the spark plug socket on, set your ratchet to "loosen" -- make sure, now -- and then unscrew the spark plug. It may be hard to loosen, especially if you have a long extension, but hold the extension straight and carefully loosen it. When it breaks free, unscrew it slowly, feeling for any binding. If it loosens and starts coming out but then seems to be tightening, stop. Tighten the plug up a bit and then loosen a bit. Repeat as necessary, you don't want to damage the threads, but it may not be avoidable. You can try spraying a little penetrating oil on the threads if you're that limber, but just be careful. If the plug comes out OK, be happy. If it comes out with little metal spiral shavings clinging to it, you've got a problem.
Check out the old plug. The color should be a nice even tan to gray color. It should not be physically damaged, nor should it be wet with oil or have black fluffy carbon deposits on it. Physical damage indicates that something solid got into the combustion chamber and banged around for a while. Oil fouling indicates that a lot of oil is getting into the combustion chamber. May be time for new rings or valve guides. Excessive black fluffy carbon deposits indicate a rich fuel/air mixture. This is just a basic guide of the most common things you will find. The Haynes manuals have a nice full color photo chart of various spark plug colorings and their causes. Reference this chart.
Now remove the old spark plug from your socket while thinking about what you need to do to your engine (adjust mixture, etc.). Place the new spark plug in the socket. Decide whether or not you need that little metal screw-on terminal. Did the one that came out have it? If not, you don't need it -- unscrew it. If so, keep it on there. Your spark plug wire will only fit one way. Now you need to gap the spark plug. I believe the gap should be .026", but check the manual to be sure. You check the gap between the electrode and the insulator with an appropriate feeler gauge. Bend the electrode as necessary to achieve the proper gap.
Now coat the threads of your plug with some anti-seize compound. Then remove the ratchet from your extension and hold the extension by hand. Start threading the plug into its hole this way. If your old plug came out with some metal shavings, be VERY VERY CAREFUL about how you do this. You do not want to cross-thread the new plug. However, if the old one came out with shavings, it is likely that someone else has cross-threaded the plug in the past. I personally have never had this problem but I believe the solution involves removing the cylinder head and having a thread insert installed.
This is why you want to start the plug by hand. It should start easily and turn easily as you thread it in. It should not immediately bind up in its hole. If it does, take it out and start over again as you were likely cross-threading it.
Once you get the plug hand-tight, then tighten it down with the ratchet. The torque spec is usually only around 20 ft-lbs (reference your manual), so don't overdo it.
Now replace the spark plug wire. It simply pushes onto the new plug. Then repeat this procedure for the other three spark plugs.
NOTE: Those of you with Type 4 engines will find replacing spark plugs numbers 2 and 4 quite fun. They are deep beneath the tin and are at a weird angle, so a long extension is a must, as well as a good memory, so starting the plug in its hole is easy. You may drop one of those plugs out of your socket and down onto the cylinder head, out of reach. If so, get out your handy telescoping magnet on a stick (I'm serious, you should have one of these anyway) and fish it out. If you can't get it, just leave it in there with all the other spark plugs dropped by POs. But really try to get it out as I imagine having that spark plug laying there hampers cooling somewhat.
You may also want to take this opportunity to replace your spark plug wires. Tell-tale signs of bad wires are corrosion on the terminals, stiffness of the wires (they should be soft and pliable), rough running in moist humid weather, etc. Replace your plug wires with Bosch wires. These cars run best with Bosch ignition system components. Trust me on this one. The Bosch wires usually run around $20 for the whole set, and they come with the necessary spark plug wire air seals, which seal the hole in the tin so that vital cooling air does not leak out, compromising engine cooling.
Replacing spark plug wires is very straightforward. The set will usually come with 6 wires, four for the regular spark plugs and two wires of different lengths for the lead from the ignition coil to the distributor cap center terminal.
Follow the instructions in the package for replacement. Again, do only one at a time so that there is no mix-up. You will find that the four spark plug wires are all of different lengths. Obviously the spark plug farthest from the distributor cap gets the longest one, and the closest plug gets the shorter one. Use the wire of appropriate length for the connection between the coil and distributor cap. Save the other wire and the two longest good old plug wires for your box of spares.
Make sure that all spark plug wire ends are firmly seated on their connections both at the distributor cap and spark plug ends, and also do the same for the wire from the coil to the distributor cap. Fit the wires into the existing plastic clips in various places on the engine for this purpose. This keeps them from draping against hot surfaces or wearing out by rubbing through.
Once you have done all this, you are finished. Start the car to make sure it runs fine. If it doesn't start or runs rough, re-check all your connections -- make sure you didn't get any plug wires mixed up. The firing order for all air-cooled Volkswagen engines is 1-4-3-2, so make sure the plug wires go around the distributor cap clockwise in that order.
If your old plugs were worn out or if your wires were dodgy, you will likely notice a great improvement in how your engine runs.
The spark plugs generally should be replaced every 30,000 miles. Some plugs, like the platinum spark plugs, can go longer than this. However, if the plugs become fouled or wear out before 30,000 miles, they must then be replaced sooner. Replacing the spark plugs is a fairly simple operation. It requires a special spark plug socket, and a ratchet with a few long extensions. It also requires some type of anti-seize product.
The spark plugs on an air-cooled Volkswagen engine are threaded directly into the aluminum cylinder head. Due to the different expansion rates of the spark plug metal and the cylinder head metal, the spark plugs should only be removed when the engine is cold, if possible. This reduces the chances for stripping or galling of the threads in the cylinder head.
The first step is removing the old spark plugs. To do this, you must first remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. A good tip here is to only remove one spark plug wire at a time. That way, there is no chance of possibly getting the spark plug wires mixed up. So, for orderliness, start with the spark plug for cylinder number 1. Number 1 is the front right cylinder on an air-cooled Volkswagen. There is a number stamped into the tin next to each spark plug, so observe where you are.
First remove the spark plug wire. Twist it as you pull it off. Always pull by the plastic connector, never by the wire itself. If you pull by the wire, it is likely to pull out of the plastic connector. Once you have the wire off, look down through the tin to see your spark plug staring at you. If it is a Type 1 engine you will probably only be able to see the very tip peeking out from under the tin. If you have a late Bus, you will find it easier to do this work from the open interior hatch in the luggage area. If you have a Vanagon, rejoice, this is super-easy to get to. Try to fit your spark plug socket (attached to ratchet, of course) on the spark plug. You will have to experiment with various extensions to get it on. If you find that certain engine bits are in your way (air cleaner, etc.) go ahead and remove them.
Once you've got the spark plug socket on, set your ratchet to "loosen" -- make sure, now -- and then unscrew the spark plug. It may be hard to loosen, especially if you have a long extension, but hold the extension straight and carefully loosen it. When it breaks free, unscrew it slowly, feeling for any binding. If it loosens and starts coming out but then seems to be tightening, stop. Tighten the plug up a bit and then loosen a bit. Repeat as necessary, you don't want to damage the threads, but it may not be avoidable. You can try spraying a little penetrating oil on the threads if you're that limber, but just be careful. If the plug comes out OK, be happy. If it comes out with little metal spiral shavings clinging to it, you've got a problem.
Check out the old plug. The color should be a nice even tan to gray color. It should not be physically damaged, nor should it be wet with oil or have black fluffy carbon deposits on it. Physical damage indicates that something solid got into the combustion chamber and banged around for a while. Oil fouling indicates that a lot of oil is getting into the combustion chamber. May be time for new rings or valve guides. Excessive black fluffy carbon deposits indicate a rich fuel/air mixture. This is just a basic guide of the most common things you will find. The Haynes manuals have a nice full color photo chart of various spark plug colorings and their causes. Reference this chart.
Now remove the old spark plug from your socket while thinking about what you need to do to your engine (adjust mixture, etc.). Place the new spark plug in the socket. Decide whether or not you need that little metal screw-on terminal. Did the one that came out have it? If not, you don't need it -- unscrew it. If so, keep it on there. Your spark plug wire will only fit one way. Now you need to gap the spark plug. I believe the gap should be .026", but check the manual to be sure. You check the gap between the electrode and the insulator with an appropriate feeler gauge. Bend the electrode as necessary to achieve the proper gap.
Now coat the threads of your plug with some anti-seize compound. Then remove the ratchet from your extension and hold the extension by hand. Start threading the plug into its hole this way. If your old plug came out with some metal shavings, be VERY VERY CAREFUL about how you do this. You do not want to cross-thread the new plug. However, if the old one came out with shavings, it is likely that someone else has cross-threaded the plug in the past. I personally have never had this problem but I believe the solution involves removing the cylinder head and having a thread insert installed.
This is why you want to start the plug by hand. It should start easily and turn easily as you thread it in. It should not immediately bind up in its hole. If it does, take it out and start over again as you were likely cross-threading it.
Once you get the plug hand-tight, then tighten it down with the ratchet. The torque spec is usually only around 20 ft-lbs (reference your manual), so don't overdo it.
Now replace the spark plug wire. It simply pushes onto the new plug. Then repeat this procedure for the other three spark plugs.
NOTE: Those of you with Type 4 engines will find replacing spark plugs numbers 2 and 4 quite fun. They are deep beneath the tin and are at a weird angle, so a long extension is a must, as well as a good memory, so starting the plug in its hole is easy. You may drop one of those plugs out of your socket and down onto the cylinder head, out of reach. If so, get out your handy telescoping magnet on a stick (I'm serious, you should have one of these anyway) and fish it out. If you can't get it, just leave it in there with all the other spark plugs dropped by POs. But really try to get it out as I imagine having that spark plug laying there hampers cooling somewhat.
You may also want to take this opportunity to replace your spark plug wires. Tell-tale signs of bad wires are corrosion on the terminals, stiffness of the wires (they should be soft and pliable), rough running in moist humid weather, etc. Replace your plug wires with Bosch wires. These cars run best with Bosch ignition system components. Trust me on this one. The Bosch wires usually run around $20 for the whole set, and they come with the necessary spark plug wire air seals, which seal the hole in the tin so that vital cooling air does not leak out, compromising engine cooling.
Replacing spark plug wires is very straightforward. The set will usually come with 6 wires, four for the regular spark plugs and two wires of different lengths for the lead from the ignition coil to the distributor cap center terminal.
Follow the instructions in the package for replacement. Again, do only one at a time so that there is no mix-up. You will find that the four spark plug wires are all of different lengths. Obviously the spark plug farthest from the distributor cap gets the longest one, and the closest plug gets the shorter one. Use the wire of appropriate length for the connection between the coil and distributor cap. Save the other wire and the two longest good old plug wires for your box of spares.
Make sure that all spark plug wire ends are firmly seated on their connections both at the distributor cap and spark plug ends, and also do the same for the wire from the coil to the distributor cap. Fit the wires into the existing plastic clips in various places on the engine for this purpose. This keeps them from draping against hot surfaces or wearing out by rubbing through.
Once you have done all this, you are finished. Start the car to make sure it runs fine. If it doesn't start or runs rough, re-check all your connections -- make sure you didn't get any plug wires mixed up. The firing order for all air-cooled Volkswagen engines is 1-4-3-2, so make sure the plug wires go around the distributor cap clockwise in that order.
If your old plugs were worn out or if your wires were dodgy, you will likely notice a great improvement in how your engine runs.
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